Toscani – provocateur or courageous brand leader?
That was the topic of our first Brand Club Special at the end of August. The occasion was an exhibition at the Museum of Design Zurich, which are dedicated to the work of the photographer and creative director Oliviero Toscani is dedicated to it. Of particular interest to the Brand Club: Toscani's iconic, albeit controversial, advertising campaigns for the brand. Benetton in the 1980s and 1990s. With their taboo-breaking depictions of illness, war and social injustices, they undoubtedly attracted attention, but also provoked fierce protests due to their provocative content and media presentation without commentary.
Following a professional guided tour of the exhibition by Ms. Cian Rollo, Toscani's branding work was discussed intensively and controversially in the established Brand Bowl format. The discussion was framed by our 2024 annual theme: BRAND AND RESPONSIBILITY.
It's impossible to know for sure what Toscani's intentions were – whether he used the reach of the Benetton brand to draw attention to social injustices or whether, conversely, the provocative images were merely a means of generating attention. The fact remains, however, that the brand's perceived value, which might have been built up among customers through Toscani's campaigns, was either too low or nonexistent. As a result, the brand faded into insignificance in the face of aggressive competition and the effects of the internet revolution. And to this day, it hasn't experienced a revival.
The main point of discussion was the significance of Toscani's campaigns within the context of Benetton's brand identity. Is it even possible to establish a connection here, especially considering Toscani's later work?
That Toscani's work made the Benetton brand name famous is undeniable. But apparently, no lasting significance (brand capital) was able to develop. Continuous, even escalating, provocation in marketing did lead to sales success and profit. However, it did not help to build a brand core that would have been meaningful to the customers' everyday lives. Conclusion: Provocation as a constant strategy ultimately leads to a loss of customer trust.
Toscani's conviction against such concerns was: "Those who try to please everyone end up pleasing no one. The compulsive search for consensus and the fear of failure lead directly to mediocrity." He wanted to follow his personal mission and could not accept that, as a brand manager, he had to orient his decisions and actions toward a brand core that bound him. This conclusion not only fits our theme for the year but also the current discussion about the political responsibility of brands.
Our discussion showed that Toscani's paintings have lost none of their social relevance. They continue to spark fascinating debates today. We thank all participants for their diverse contributions, some of which delved deeper into brand management, and for the engaging discussion!
For those who couldn't make it this time: Due to popular demand, the exhibition has been extended until January 5, 2025. The next Brand Club Special is already in the planning stages. Until then... here to find upcoming Brand Club events in DACH covering many exciting brand topics.
